Sweep it, pull out any weeds, then wash it with a patio or block paving cleaner and a stiff brush. If you use a pressure washer, hold it at an angle rather than straight down, so you don't blast the sand out of the joints. Once it's dry, brush fresh kiln-dried sand back into the gaps.
No pressure washer? A stiff yard brush and a good block paving cleaner will still shift most dirt and green algae. See our [block paving sealants and cleaners].
Deal with it quickly. Soak up fresh oil with sand or cat litter and sweep it away, then apply a driveway oil remover or degreaser, scrub it in with a stiff brush and rinse. Old stains usually need two or three goes. Sealing the paving afterwards makes future spills far easier to clean.
Avoid washing oil straight into the joints or onto the lawn. Find cleaners and oil removers in our [block paving sealants and cleaners].
Clean the paving and let it dry fully, then brush kiln-dried sand into the joints. Apply the sealer with a roller or sprayer, usually in two coats, and keep off it until it's cured. You need a dry spell with no rain forecast for a day or two, so an early autumn dry week is ideal before winter sets in.
Sealing locks the joint sand in, helps keep weeds down and stops oil and dirt soaking in. See our [block paving sealants and cleaners].
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