Pick a dry day, brush off dirt, cobwebs and any flaking paint, and cover nearby plants. Stir the paint well, then brush or spray it on along the grain, working from the top down, one panel at a time. Two thin coats last better than one thick one, so let the first dry before adding the second.
Don't forget the posts, gravel boards and the tops of the panels, where water sits longest. Browse our [fence paint] range.
Usually not. Most fence paints need dry wood to soak in, other wise they streak or peel. After rain, give the fence a day or two to dry out. Some fence paints are made to go onto damp wood and shrug off a shower soon after, and they'll say so on the tin. In autumn, that type is worth choosing.
Check the temperature on the tin too, as most won't cure properly on a cold, frosty day. See our [fence paint] and [wood care] ranges.
It's best not to. Fence paint isn't made to take foot traffic, so it wears off quickly on a deck and can leave the surface slippery when wet. Decking oils and stains are made to soak in, stand up to feet and furniture, and keep the boards safe to walk on.
Use fence paint for fences, sheds and gates, and a decking oil or stain for anything you walk on. See our [decking stains and oils].
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